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Thursday, 29 November 2018

Time for a new winter coat

Its getting colder...




So time for a new winter coat.  Last time I made a coat it was all about a fairly conservative fabric given some special interest with fancy buttons and velvet appliqué  But this time its going to be all about the fabric, something Very Special from a new discovery fabric warehouse, it's 100% Cashmere - how could I resist?

Blue/grey fabric at the top is for a dress (more about this another day), Spice coloured below for the coat - both cashmere

When I say a new discovery I only mean new to me - Crescent Trading is in fact one of the oldest businesses in Spitalfields that is still being run by its founders.  The stock is amazing and I shall just have to leave it to readers to visit for themselves to appreciate the suitings, silks and shirting, not to mention the cashmere.  



The coat design is simple, a slightly tulip shape, with raglan sleeves, and one button.  But the lining is something else. The jacquard silk with a multi coloured stripe is in fact a sarong bought in a harbour-side shop on a greek island on my holiday this year. 

The hope of summers without coats, cut into a coat for winter ahead (words stolen from my friend the writer Elizabeth Speller)



It's the Oslo Coat from Tessuti Fabrics.  The pattern is well drafted, the coat fits well and is true to size.  But (and of course this is not a criticism of the pattern) I will never buy a print at home pattern for a full size garment again! I think in the end it felt as though I had cut out the coat four times before I was done, not to mention the paper and ink for my printer!  The instructions were also a bit wordy and over lengthy for me but an inexperienced sewist may find this more a help than a hindrance.

The simple shape went together in just two days, plus a couple of evenings hand sewing



The button came from Textile Garden, my favourite on line button store (They visit yarn and sewing fairs around the country too)


Always beautifully packaged

I was not entirely sure which of the colours would be best so I bought one of each in silver and bronze


I chose Bronze




I always agonise a bit between hand sewn, machined, or bound button holes.  I think there are pros and cons with both hand sewn and bound for coats and practically always make machine sewn ones in lighter fabrics.  You could say that, as tailors always sew the buttonholes, that they look more professional, but if skilfully worked either can look smart. (IMHO)  I'm happy with my choice (and at the request of a friend I will post a tutorial on how I work my bound button holes very soon)




With some very careful piecing the sarong yielded just enough fabric to make the entire lining from it (I had thought I would have to raid my stash for some toning fabric to complete the sleeves).




The simple plain lines of the coat hiding the totally bonkers lining makes me smile.





Temperatures are falling and the coat is finished just in time

xx

c