Seamless buttoning

I have had a telephonic disaster. A couple of weeks ago I dropped my phone in water (don't ask). Now, the replacement of a mobile is pretty simple and, as far as the physical thing, not a big deal. The drowned phone was an old and very well used I-phone 4 with a cracked screen, not a huge loss in itself. I just walked to my local phone shop and the deal was done in ten minutes (plus a significant payment to the phone company).  No it was the loss of certain information and a whole set of photographs that has cast me into confusion

I was going to blog about Gwlana, I had so many pretty photos of the Welsh Countryside in the sun (yes SUN) and of the yarn, the people and the swatches.  Luckily Felix of Knitsonik podcasted about this wonderful workshop I attended in May far better than I would have

I also visited the Chelsea Flower Show for the first time ever and took many photographs of inspirational gardens to help with our own garden plans.

All gone except those I posted on instagram.  All this threw me off balance and out of my usual blogging routine.  However, there is a new discovery that I have wanted to share with you for a while ... Buttons knitted in as you go!

I don't think I have seen anyone describe this technique before but as there is really 'nothing new under the sun' I shall borrow the word Unvented from Elizabeth Zimmerman rather than claim to have invented a new knitting trick.

If you read my blog regularly you will know I go to quite some lengths to avoid having to do any sewing up - whenever possible I chose patterns that are knit in one piece or adapt others.  So I am pleased to tell you how I have worked out how to knit buttons into a cardigan as you go, no more sewing on afterwards.  It came to me as I was thinking about a safe way to attach buttons on the cardigans I made for Isabella.

Instructions

Begin the button band, I have knitted it 'horizontally' - i.e. I picked up the stitches up one side, around the neck and down the other, working a couple of increases around the angle where the button band and neck band meet. But you can also work this technique if you knit a strip up and around from the bottom (a 'vertical' band).

Firstly knit half your desired finished width and mark the position of button holes and corresponding buttons with stitch markers (I use the Hiya Hiya knitting safety pins) 

On a right side row, knit to your first button marker (it will of course depend on whether you are knitting for a boy or girl which side of the front bands this is!).  This technique will work with any two hole button, either where the holes are in the centre or on a shank.

• Pull an extra loop through the base of the stitch below the last one knitted (both legs) and thread it onto a blunt tapestry needle (you will need a fine gauge one)

• Pass the needle up through one hole and down the next, slip the needle off leaving a loop. Slip this loop on to your right hand needle and ease the 'Extra Stitch' as tight as you can (you will need to do a bit of wiggling here!)

• Knit the next stitch and pass the loop of the Extra Stitch over .  The button is now fixed firmly to the base of a stitch by a double thread (this works best with yarn that is 4 ply or thicker).

• Knit to the next marker and repeat.  

And you are done!  On the next row just knit back, it will be a little tight but you are saved the bother of stitching on each button with no loose ends (not even the two I describe in this button sewing tutorial). It is also very unlikely the buttons will come off, specially important in baby knitting as loose buttons are a choking hazard.

How simple is that?  Do please have a go and let me know in the comments what you think

xx

c

A tweet for help

There are some Blogging Days when I know exactly what to write, others I wake in the morning and it can take me quite a while to make up my mind.  So when from time to time one of my Knitting Sisters asks me to write about something I am all too happy to oblige.  Last Thursday Kathleen tweeted

Kathleen LawtonTrask ‏@KnitLikeUMeanIt2h

My buttons keep falling off! Need a @chopkins_knits tutorial on finishing. #RemedialKnitter

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How flattering to be asked! Kathleen is a wonderful knitter, teacher of knitting and writer of knitting books, the latest of which is the very desirable Silver Screen Knits

But, despite her expertise, she did ask me so I am delighted to oblige, not least because it combines two of the things I like most - buttons, and telling people what to do!

I had just finished my Juno vintage cardigan, it needed seven small buttons. I found exactly what I was looking for in my rather large button stash in several faded shades of green perfect for the many tones in the lovely Juno Buffy that I used for my cardi.

And so this post is how I got from this ....

to this in just a few minutes

The fewer ends you have the less there are to come undone so here is how you can sew the buttons on with one very long thread.  You could even use the thread from your cast on if it is long enough (or you think ahead!)  

If you don't, secure the end close to where you want your first button,  you can use the seam where you attached the button band to the front of your cardigan.  Run a line of wiggle stitch about an inch up your band and then reverse back down, splitting your 'up' stitches holds the yarn even tighter.  (I have left the wiggles loose here so it is just possible to see them). 

The button band on my cardigan is knitted in with the front, by running the wiggle stitch in and out of the Vs at the back of the purl gutter they are indistinguishable from the bars of the purl stitches on the right side.   

When you reach exactly opposite the position of the first button, strike across to the middle of the button band following the knitting stitches as you go (in my example they are reverse stocking stitches). 

Your needle will go up...

 and down

This technique, often called swiss darning, is used for adding small areas of colour to the right side of your knitting when intarsia would be too fiddly but it works well here.  It is invisible, yet reinforces the place where you stitch your button.

When you reach the middle bring your yarn to the right side and attach your button

wiggle back to the edge of the band and up to the next button position.  After the last button secure the end of the yarn in the same way as at the beginning

BOSH

Done

There may be other reasons for the button falling off to do with the button itself.  Sometimes the shank has a sharp edge, this is especially true with metal buttons.  You can try to file the rough part down if you have something called a rat tail file, or coat the shank with clear nail varnish.  Both can work although you have to be able to find the sharp edge on something that is pretty small.  

One trick I have used is to use ribbon instead of thread, it does not stop the button eroding the ribbon but it does last longer.  Just use a length of fine ribbon, thread it through the shank of the button (or through the eyelets)

 and through to the other side of the cardigan (in two places of course!) and tie the ends in a reef knot (remember... right over left, left over right?) and finish off with a pretty bow.

Much nicer I think than using heavy thread, formerly called Boot Button Thread.  However, although it is heavy and can look down-right ugly it does have it's place!

These are the two best ways I know for making sure my buttons don't fall off at tricky moments, I would love to know what methods you prefer

xx

C