Monday, 19 March 2012

The third post

Not my third blog post ever but Titanic #3  A ladies skirt from February 4, 1912 (VPLL 0200)  I received the pattern as the largest size pdf and took it to my local print shop as before.

In size 34" waist it looked as though it was going to fit me without alterations (and without contemporary underpinnings being absolutely essential).  When I made the Princess Slip I had to compromise on trimmings and use lace made from synthetic fibre, but for this project I do want to use materials that are as close to the contemporary fabrics and notions as possible.  My local fabric shop was able to provide linen in gooseberry green, cotton binding in french navy and cotton tailor's canvas.   Nothing synthetic in sight (except possibly the sewing thread)

The hooks and eyes and press studs (snaps?) are metal so could have been made in 1912 but I will defer to friends who have a much better knowledge of what-was-used-when to correct me if necessary. I cut the facing for the scallop edge as a straight piece to begin with and cut it to shape, after sewing.

Linen and cotton may crease with wearing (I don't mind a few creases, though some do) but it is also a dream to sew with, as when pressed it is possible to get a near perfect alignment.

I chose to use the contrast binding to trim the top of the waist (which is interlined with the canvas) as well as the scallop edge.

In the picture at the top of the blog you can see that I have 9 vintage style buttons laid out with my kit but I soon realised I had miscounted and needed 13.  I could have redrawn the pattern to create fewer, bigger, scallops but instead decided to use scraps of the cotton binding to make covered buttons.  A button making evening followed...

The finished effect pleases me enormously, although I admit to the edge being more saw-toothed than scalloped!

The front opening is closed with hooks and eyes.  When I tried it on the points gaped a little so I fixed the points of the opening with tiny  press studs  and lower down small tacking stitches. Being used to 5/8 inch seam turnings on modern patterns the 3/8 on these was a bit of a challenge, but it does work, even when neatening seams by turning under the seam allowance and stitching on the edge. The waist facing is blind hemmed along the natural waist line.

Now I do intend to make a corset from Corsets by Jill Salen (purely for the purposes of the clothes hanging correctly, of course!)   But even without tight lacing the skirt fitted quite well.  Authentically in fact, as after half an hour walking about my bedroom trying to get the right shot, I felt mildly breathless from the tight fit around my lower rib cage.

The blouse is modern (Anthropoligie) but I felt it had the right shape, pin tucks at the shoulders and softly draping sleeves.  

Some bloggers have provided details of how long a pattern has taken to make up.  I have again failed to time myself but estimate it took about 5 hours to cut out and machine sew (the pattern pieces fitted together effortlessly without any adjustments) and probably as long again on the hand sewing.  But I didn't rush it and I had fun!



VPLL Checklist

  1. Pattern Name Scallop edge skirt  #0200
  2. Sewer’s Skill Level: Advance
  3. Pattern Rating:  I LOVED IT! the fit is really good (so glad some of those women in 1912 had a 34" waist!)   
  4. What skill level would someone need to sew this pattern? beginners with a little help I would say.  You need to do a bit of simple hand stitching and care to get the binding right but all the other shaping is in the seams
  5. Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.  My only question was which way should the scallops face.  My instinct was that the opening should face the back but the pattern and instructions said otherwise so I followed that and put snaps on the points of the scallops at the opening and tacking stitches further down to avoid any gaping
  6. How was the fit/sizing?  yes exactly
  7. Did you make any pattern alterations? no
  8. Other notes:  The style would be great for contemporary wear too


Brooke said...

What a lovely skirt! The scallops look wonderful, and I love the cloth covered buttons. :)

patty said...

beautiful job, lovely fabric

Lisa and Robin said...

Really lovely work. I'm inspired to try this pattern now...when I have time. Lisa

spinndiva said...

OMG! This skirt turned out amazing! What a great job you did sewing this! I am totally in love with it!

On a sad note: Google has gotten so bad with it's word verification that this will be my last comment here.. It took me five times and a second go round at the comment form now to try and put the silly words in... I just don't have the time for this... *shakes fist at google*

Barbara from Nova Scotia said...